Oslo, Norway

Maaemo

The Nordics • Eat & drink • Maaemo in Oslo, Norway

What’s the restaurant in a nutshell?

As the founder and head chef of Oslo’s only three-star Michelin restaurant, Esben Holmboe Bang has set an exceptionally high bar for himself and his team. Maaemo, a name that derives from the ancient Norse word for ‘Mother Earth’, indicated where his priorities lie. He makes sure that all produce on the set menu is either biodynamic, organic or wild. As such, Maamo is an exploration of the Norwegian terroir. Guests are invited to enter a dramatic, dimly lit space with high vaulted ceilings, designed by local firm Radius design, that feels both sophisticated and clandestine at the same time.

What are the signature dishes?

Welcome to the temple of Norse cuisine, where every ingredient has been carefully sourced in the wild or organically and biodynamically grown in the Oslo vicinity. Holmboe Bang also tries to be completely waste-free, and whatever scraps do remain are reused at Maaemo’s farms. The king crab in smoked reindeer broth with chicken fat is highly sought after, as is the Norwegian ‘lompe’ potato pancake topped with beer-steamed langoustine and elm shoots. Those with a sweet tooth also have something to look forward to – the meal is concluded with warm cinnamon buns, brown cheese toffee and a cloudberry tart.

Drinks, anyone?

Maaemo’s wine director Michał Gielas’s work is to match the flavours of ‘Norway on a plate’, and do so with great success. There is a regular wine pairing, as well as a prestige one selection. We love that the restaurant’s wine cellar looks just like a grand walk in closet, but for wines.

What’s the neighbourhood like?

Gamle Oslo, or ‘old Oslo’, is anything but old and frumpy. The neighbourhood, which includes the site of the old mediaeval city which sadly burned down in 1624, is a lively and multicultural district and is made up of a few smaller areas. It includes Tøyen, a mostly residential area with a couple of parks, Bjørvika, the city’s revitalised port area which includes the Munch Museum and the Oslo Opera House, as well as multicultural Grønland.