Porvoo, Finland

Review: Runo Hotel

The Nordics • Stay • Review: Runo Hotel in Porvoo, Finland

What’s the hotel in a nutshell?

Taking pride of place in the main square of Porvoo, Runo Hotel provides all the reasons you might need for turning a day trip into an overnight (or nights!) trip. While Porvoo, a picture-postcard town about an hour east from Helsinki, has long attracted an arty, foodie crowd, until recently the options for an extended stay were limited. Formerly a bank (amongst many other incarnations), the building underwent a complete yet sensitive renovation to open as Runo Hotel in 2021. The result: understated luxury where craftsmanship, locally sourced materials, calming palettes and quality take centre stage. You might come for the night, but you will want to put your feet firmly under the (handcrafted) table for longer.

Text by Fiona Mäkinen.

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What are the rooms like?

As throughout the hotel, the 56 rooms were designed by internationally renowned interior architect, Joanna Laajisto. They are divided into various categories, ranging from Small to Extra-Large with suite options to include Balcony, Corner and even Fireplace (understandably decorative only).

Pared-back style

Everything about the bedrooms scream, or at least quietly whisper, enduring quality. Wood is the mainstay – from the natural wood floor and wardrobes to the original, painted wooden doors and timber half-wall panelling. Bathrooms continue the natural theme with cool stone. Tones are muted, the lighting is soft and the aesthetic is timeless.

Our favourite spot

Although we visited in winter, the charm of the little balcony of our Balcony Suite was not lost on us. With its pretty iron table and chairs and overlooking the hotel’s inner courtyard, it would make the perfect spot to soak up the sun or settle down with a book. On chillier days, the suite’s cosy seating area was just as good an option.

The little details

But it was the small details that really made the difference. We particularly loved having a water carbonator in our room, so fizzy water really was on tap. And not a single plastic bottle (water or otherwise) in sight.

Also, the message on the hotel slippers encouraging us to take them home if used, so they don’t end up being thrown away, was a nice touch. Hotels rarely follow through on all their sustainability claims, so these really made an impression. And should you want a more substantial memento to take home, there are locally made wool socks to buy.

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What else?

Built in 1912 as a representation of Finnish culture (and some might say to rival the neighbouring Swedish-built bank), Valtimontalo, as Runo Hotel was then known, has had an interesting past. In its many previous lives, it has been a bank and a residence, as well as housing Porvoo’s first cinema, a barber and a florist. After our visit, we’d say it’s now living its best life as Runo Hotel.

Feel at home

Covering nearly the whole of the ground floor, the bar area is the beating heart of the hotel. More beautiful, welcoming living room than bar, this is the place where locals and guests come to relax, have a coffee, catch up with friends, read the newspaper or indulge in a fantastic cocktail. This really does feel like a space designed for lingering, as if you’re visiting your (most stylish) friend’s home.

Like all the staff, our knowledgeable barman was attentive yet unobtrusive – often a difficult mix to get right. He recommended a superb local gin served with sea buckthorn berries which was made with an eye for detail, just like everything else in the hotel.

Breakfast done beautifully

Hotel breakfasts can often disappoint but most definitely not here as this was one of the best we’ve had. And it seems we were not alone in that view – it was nicely bustling but not overcrowded. However, it can get busy between 9.00 and 10.00 at the weekends (according to our helpful in-room guide), although brunch is served until well into the afternoon.

In perfect keeping with the ethos of the hotel, Finnish, artisanal, handcrafted products were in abundance. Delicious home-made granola, jams, Finnish pancakes, home-baked breads, eggs, cakes, fresh vitamin-shots and juices – all of which felt just the right side of naughty.

It is worth noting that the restaurant is not open for dinner, but with several cute local restaurants to explore this didn’t feel like a disappointment.

A tranquil sanctuary

A review of Runo Hotel would not be complete without a mention of its beautifully peaceful attic sauna and lounge. Even if the sauna is not normally your thing, it’s worth a visit. From the birdsong soundtrack to the cold plunge shower, the experience was truly restorative. And if that is still not tempting, then you can always just put your feet up around the fireplace and take it easy.

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What’s our final take?

The slightly imposing, traditional yellow exterior of Runo Hotel belies its serene and calming Nordic interiors. But don’t be daunted by the perfectly considered setting – you are welcomed in like an old friend, to feel truly at home. This is craftsmanship, in all its forms, at its best. From the beautifully curated Finnish artwork to the bespoke furniture, artisan breakfast and lovingly crafted cocktails, you really get the feeling that thought has gone into every decision.

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What’s the region like?

Uusimaa, the southernmost region of Finland, encompasses a diverse landscape of bustling cities, charming coastal towns and verdant countryside. Home to the nation’s capital, Helsinki, Uusimaa offers a dynamic fusion of historic landmarks such as the iconic Suomenlinna Sea Fortress and contemporary architectural marvels like the Helsinki Central Library Oodi. Beyond the capital, visitors can explore the idyllic charms of Porvoo, Finland’s second-oldest town, with its cobblestone streets and iconic red warehouses. The region’s archipelago, consisting of over 1,000 islands, provides a unique opportunity for island hopping, sailing and outdoor activities.

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