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Chignon Raté au Citron at Farina in Malmö, Sweden

Farina opened in Malmö neighbourhood Möllevången in 2020 and made its name on laminated dough, maritozzi and the kind of bakery crowd that already knows what it wants before reaching the till.

The Chignon Raté au Citron is easy to miss if you are there for the headliners. That would be a mistake.

It starts with scraps, which already gives it a different energy. The dough bakes up tighter and more irregular than a straight croissant, with more ridges, more crunch and more of those dark buttery bits that make laminated pastry worth bothering with in the first place. Then comes the lemon curd, which does exactly what it should: cuts through the fat and keeps the whole thing from tipping into bakery blur.

The better order

That is why we like it more than the maritozzi. The maritozzi do the obvious work: big cream, soft bun and instant appeal. The chignon is a little smarter. It takes what could have been waste and turns it into the thing you end up thinking about later. 

There is also something very Farina about it. A bakery known for the crowd-pleasers quietly making one of its best things from offcuts feels right. You notice it once, then start checking whether there is one left before looking at anything else.