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The Nordics • Insider guides • 48 hours in Tallinn, Estonia
15.00
Upon your arrival in Tallinn, head to The Burman Hotel, an Art Deco crown jewel in Old Town just steps from Town Hall Square. The former 15th-century merchant’s mansion first opened as a hotel in the 1850s – reimagined by its namesake Karl Friedrich Burman, an Estonian architect, in 1933 and re-opened in 2025 – instantly reclaiming its status as Estonia’s most storied address. Seventeen bespoke rooms include nine Deluxe chambers overlooking the cobbles of Dunkri and Rataskaevu, three Junior suites with marble-clad rain-showers and three lofty Signature suites where heritage parquet meets sky-high ceilings. The Piangl Suite flaunts a 1933 St Petersburg-style fireplace, while the Kellalac Suite’s corner perch frames red-tile panoramas. Each room is crowned with a handmade Treca Vienne–Venise mattress, once reserved for Orient Express carriages. Four distinct dining venues on site complete the picture of refined, in-house living.
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15.30
Photography courtesy of The Burman Hotel
18.00
Tucked behind a sliding paper screen, Koyo seats just eleven bright-red upholstered chairs around an L-shaped counter, where Chef Kazuto Hokari – fresh from Japan – guides two nightly sittings through a 14-course omakase (chef’s curated tasting). Sushi reigns supreme: eel and akami tuna emerge as standout favourites of both chef and regulars, each piece carved and served with the precision of omotenashi (the Japanese art of hospitality). Seasonal sashimi and charcoal-kissed fish follow a daily rhythm dictated by nature’s bounty, while a concise selection of wines, champagnes and curated sakes underscores every bite. A rare tea menu – think silky Uji gyokuro or toasted Hwangcha – adds a final flourish. Koyo is Tallinn’s only Michelin-listed omakase spot.
Photography courtesy of Koyo
20.00
Photography courtesy of The Peacock Lounge
21.00
Slip through a discreet door in Old Town and descend into Bombay Club, Tallinn’s boutique casino tailored for a select few. Eleven yellow‐felt tables stage Roulette, Blackjack, Baccarat and Poker beneath low‐beamed ceilings and gallery‐style sconces. In the Golden Hall, marble columns punctuate each deal; in the Ruby Salon, velvet drapes cocoon two tables for the most private Baccarat or Roulette you’ll find anywhere. Croupiers move with confidence, explaining rules to newcomers and sizing up veterans without a word. When play pauses, raise a Byculla – gin infused with bergamot and saffron – or explore an exclusive James Bond wine list featuring a dozen vintages reserved for VIPs. Here, stakes and discretion are equal currency.
Photography courtesy of Bombay Club
9.00
Day two kicks off at Écrin, The Burman Hotel’s light-filled restaurant just off the lobby. Here, the lobster omelette steals the show, fluffy eggs wrapped around chunks of tender Atlantic lobster, served with chives and crème fraîche. For a more celebratory start, opt for the champagne breakfast: flutes of bubbly arrive alongside house-made pastries, seasonal fruit and smoked salmon blinis. Décor is artful with white linen, polished wood and soaring windows, keeping your focus on the tasty dishes and attentive service.
Photography courtesy of Écrin
10.00
11.00
Tallinn may trade on medieval towers and cobbled streets, but a new breed of galleries forces a fresh gaze. At Koos Gallery – ‘together’ in Estonian – fluid glass sculptures by Eili Soon mingle with paintings and Art Allmägi’s award-winning installations in a 17th-century townhouse, each piece probing the relationship between art and space. The gallery doubles as an art-investment hub, championing serious collectors who share its passion for thought-provoking expression. Not far away, PoCo stands as the city’s pop-art embassy, showcasing icons from Warhol, Lichtenstein and Haring to Banksy, Koons, Basquiat, Kusama and Newton. Here, pop’s bold colours and graphic punch collide in immersive exhibitions. Together, these venues prove that beneath Tallinn’s ancient veneer, a restless avant-garde is staking its claim.
Photography courtesy of PoCo
13.00
By midday, Maison François in Old Town is a backstage pass to boulangerie mastery. Opt for either the Soupe à l’Oignon Gratinée, where sweet caramelised onions steep in a house-made broth topped with bubbling Gruyère and crisp croutons, or the Salade Niçoise with peppered greens, olives and capers draped under seared fresh tuna and a sharp Dijon vinaigrette. Don’t bypass the bread counter, though: stone-oven loaves, flaky croissants and buttery brioche emerge hourly from baker François Arnould’s hands. Paired with café au lait or a glass of chilled rosé, it’s an unapologetically indulgent pause before you tackle Tallinn’s retail explorations.
Photography courtesy of Maison François
14.00
Photography courtesy of Guild and Unsplash
16.00
19.00
Shang Shi translates as ‘Royal Feast’, a name that promises banquet-level Cantonese dining beneath a 15th-century hand-painted ceiling. Chef Chee Hwee Tong of Hakkasan fame engineers each dish in a sixty-seat dining room and ten-seat VIP salon. The Legendary Peking Duck (24-hour notice) unfolds in three acts: crackling skin, tender meat with pancakes, then minced duck in lettuce cups – ideally crowned with Beluga caviar. A flight of eight steamed dim sum flavours turns tasting into a playful ritual, while honey-glazed char siu pork and garlicky pak choi honour time-tested technique. The serene interior, by Macau based Westar Architects, is complemented by Monika Tsang’s bespoke chopsticks, dim sum holders and bespoke tableware, and a menu stamped by the Michelin Guide seals the sumptuous experience.
Photography courtesy of Shang Shi
21.00
Start by asking for the Sneaky Fox, Fox Den’s much-whispered off-menu signature that marks you as in the know. Settle into what was once the 15th-century Rebaseurg cellar – now three intimate chambers beneath vaulted brick arches and original oak beams: a 12-seat cigar salon, a 10-seat wine vault and a 20-seat whiskey bar. Plush leather armchairs cluster around low tables set with ashtrays for cigars rolled on the spot. A sommelier moves between guests, offering flights from legendary Bordeaux to under-the-radar labels, while regular masterclasses decode smoke, oak and tannin and themed wine and whiskey poker evenings up the ante.
Photography courtesy of Fox Den
22.00
Photography courtesy of Velvet
10.00
Day three pivots from Old Town’s medieval pulse to Kadriorg Park, Peter the Great’s 1718 Baroque statement for Catherine I. Broad gravel promenades flank manicured azalea beds and a tucked-away Japanese garden before the pastel-pink palace comes into view, now a trophy room for Dutch masters and Italian Renaissance portraits. A short walk leads to Kumu, its concrete-and-glass shell cutting through rococo excess with a punch of contemporary art. Don’t skip the Mikkel Museum’s silver collection and the Peter the Great House Museum by the lily-dotted pond, where imperial ambition resides in a modest wood cabin. In three hours, you’ll traverse three centuries of power and creativity.
13.00
The sweetest farewell to Tallinn arrives at Écrin’s Afternoon Tea. A silver and porcelain tower delivers scones still steaming, their crusts shattering to reveal pillowy interiors – tear one open, smear it with thick clotted cream and tart lingonberry jam. The next tier lines up paper-thin cucumber with dill, smoky salmon crowned in chive mayo and egg-mayonnaise on butter-bright brioche. On top, pistachio macarons snap like a punch, lemon tarts pucker the tongue and fruit danishes flake in riotous spirals. A pot of single-origin Darjeeling or pine-needle herbal infusion arrives in fine china. It’s one last, sweet irreverent taste of the city.
Photography courtesy of Écrin
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