The Nordic Nomad

Nordic tastemakers

My Nordics, as told by artist Lilja Birgisdóttir

The Nordics • Insider guides • My Nordics, as told by artist Lilja Birgisdóttir

An insider’s guide to the Nordics with Lilja Birgisdóttir

For Icelandic artist Lilja Birgisdóttir, family and creativity are inseparable. Alongside her three siblings, she co-founded Fischersund, a joint creative outlet where their artistic talents converge. The perfumery and art collective, housed in what was originally Jónsi’s (of Icelandic band Sigur Rós) private studio, has since evolved into a sensory-driven space where the family blends scent, art and storytelling. Each family member plays a unique role: Lilja as a photographer, Inga as a video artist, Jónsi as the nose behind their perfumes and their younger sister Sigurrós blending the products. Even their parents are involved, with their father crafting incense and their mother offering support.

Fischersund in Reykjavík is an immersive experience. Visitors are taken on a journey through the family’s perfumes (book ahead!), guided by personal stories and childhood memories. The space feels intimate and a bit tucked away, reflecting the family’s dedication to creating something personal and authentic. Each product is rooted in their Icelandic heritage and shaped by their shared creative vision.

In this interview, Birgisdóttir offers insights into the Nordic places, experiences and moments that resonate deeply with her.

photography courtesy of Fishersund

“But I also think that this darkness and isolation create a need to counteract it through creativity.”

In the Nordics, my favourite country is …

… Iceland. I have so many personal memories here, and Iceland is also where I find my creative inspiration. My history is here, my work is here and I’m very family-oriented, so my favourite moments are about spending time with my family. The biggest challenge for Icelandic people is, of course, the weather. Iceland is very cold, and the weather can be intense. Nature here has such a strong presence – it’s dramatic and even dangerous at times. During winter, it’s dark almost 24/7, which can be exhausting. But I also think that this darkness and isolation create a need to counteract it through creativity. For such a small population, there’s an incredible amount of artistic talent in Iceland. It almost feels like a survival instinct. Being so close to such raw, emotional nature makes you more raw and emotional as a person – it’s hard to be superficial in an environment like this.

For a dose of urban pulse, I head to …

… Reykjavík‘s bigger brother, Copenhagen. I mean, Copenhagen just has this incredible design heritage and I love visiting it. The craftsmanship, the quality – it’s all at such a high level, and they’re also so advanced in terms of sustainability. There are just so many cool designers. I was there earlier this summer, and I have to mention a really amazing place – it’s called Københavns Møbelsnedkeri. We visited this beautiful workshop where they hand-make all their furniture, it’s true artistry and craftsmanship. I just love the creativity there – it feels like anything is possible.

photography courtesy of Deplar farm

“You don’t need to walk on the glacier to be amazed – just getting close is breathtaking.”

For the perfect close-to-nature experience, I visit …

… Sólheimajökull, a glacier located on the southern coast of Iceland, about two hours from Reykjavík. I’ve been there a few times, and it’s really special. We even did a project called Jöklalykt with 66°North to raise awareness about the melting glaciers in Iceland. You don’t need to walk on the glacier to be amazed – just getting close is breathtaking. The crisp air and ancient earth smell are humbling. Even as Icelanders, we don’t visit glaciers often, but every time I go, it’s unforgettable. The best part is, it’s free to visit and the area around it is full of waterfalls and stunning scenery.

For a memorable getaway, I check myself into …

… Deplar Farm. It’s a truly unique resort with an incredible spa, unlike anything you’ve ever seen. It’s luxury done thoughtfully, in harmony with Icelandic nature, and the people there are amazing. For a more typical getaway, my family has a summer house near a place called Flúðir in the south of Iceland, and we go there almost every weekend.

photography courtesy of Óx

“What’s unique about Reykjavík is that most bars turn into nightclubs after a certain time … ”

For a great meal, I go to …

… Óx, an Icelandic Michelin-starred restaurant. When you go there, it’s a whole experience. I really love when places build these experiences around their expertise, like we do at Fischersund. They actually use one of our scents, number 23, in their culinary experience. They use it to cleanse the palate – you get a warm towel infused with the scent to prepare for the next part of the meal. Óx is a can’t-miss in Iceland. Every detail is so well thought out and it feels very personal, not overly fancy. The restaurant seats just 17 guests, making it an intimate experience. The chef, Þráinn Freyr Vigfússon, draws inspiration from his grandmother’s kitchen in northern Iceland, and they even recreated her kitchen at Óx. The bar, open to everyone, is modeled after her living room. It’s a beautiful homage to old Icelandic life.

For a fun night out, I head to …

… Kaffibarinn, one of Reykjavík’s most iconic bars. It’s great for after-work drinks, and Reykjavík’s nightlife is super convenient since all the bars are within walking distance. At Kaffibarinn, we often meet for a cold beer – Iceland has an amazing beer culture. After midnight, Kaffibarinn turns into a dance club, but I tend to leave a bit earlier these days. Still, I have fond memories of staying until it closed at 2:45 a.m., and stepping out into the bright summer sky with birds singing. We even created a limited-edition perfume inspired by that exact moment. Another bar I recommend is Röntgen, a relaxed spot where I can meet friends of all ages, whether they’re 20 or 60. What’s unique about Reykjavík is that most bars turn into nightclubs after a certain time, so you get the best of both worlds.

photography courtesy of Aftur

photography courtesy of Reykjavik Art Museum

“There are art openings almost every weekend, so you can always find something new to explore.”

For a dose of retail therapy, I shop at …

… two of my favorite stores in Iceland: Hildur Yeoman and Aftur. Hildur Yeoman offers bold, colourful and versatile designs that are full of life, while Aftur specializes in repurposing old clothes, giving them a fresh, darker, rock-and-roll twist. Both designers have strong visions and unique styles, and since their shops are located close to each other, it’s easy to visit both in one go. When I’m in Copenhagen, I love shopping at Storm, a concept store known for its carefully curated selection of fashion, books and art. It’s like the Colette of Paris, where every item reflects impeccable taste, and Fischersund is represented there.

For a dose of culture, I head to …

… the Reykjavik Art Museum Hafnarhús, just a two-minute walk from our store. Right now, my brother Jónsi has a stunning exhibition called Flóð, running until the end of the year. It perfectly captures his creative spirit, combining music, scent and raw emotion into a beautiful, immersive experience. Another cultural hub I love is The Marshall House, located by the harbour. It hosts several art venues, including the Living Art Museum , which showcases innovative contemporary art, and Kling & Bang, an artist-run gallery that’s been at the heart of the Icelandic art scene. There’s also Þula Gallery, which focuses on contemporary Icelandic artists, especially women. I recently exhibited there with my sister. The ground floor of The Marshall House features a great restaurant known for its fish dishes, and all the galleries inside offer free admission, making it a must-visit for anyone interested in Icelandic art. There are art openings almost every weekend, so you can always find something new to explore.

“There’s even a word, útilykt, that describes the smell you carry when you come back indoors after being outside in nature.”

For a hidden gem, I recommend …

… visiting a local swimming pool in any town in Iceland. It’s such a big part of Icelandic culture and a fantastic way to experience local life. Iceland is cold year-round, but thanks to the geothermal pools, it’s a place where everyone can warm up and relax. Just yesterday, I went with my son and partner, and we were sitting there, appreciating how these pools are a meeting spot for all ages. It’s a great way to get a glimpse of Icelandic community life – everyone goes to these pools. While many visitors might head to the Blue Lagoon for a premium experience, locals prefer these regular pools.

For me, a quintessential Nordic experience is …

… being alone in nature, especially in the cold. Being an island, we’re constantly hit with Arctic winds, so it’s never truly warm. In fact, we’re a bit obsessed with the weather here – it’s deeply woven into our language. We have hundreds of words to describe even the slightest change in weather. There’s even a word, útilykt, that describes the smell you carry when you come back indoors after being outside in nature. It’s this mix of fresh air and earth clinging to your clothes and hair. In Iceland, connecting to nature is really about connecting to yourself. I live in downtown Reykjavík and within ten minutes, I can be out in the wilderness. It’s such a grounding experience – breathing in the Arctic air, getting red cheeks from the cold and just losing track of time in the quiet.