Sweden
Why Sweden’s traditional food ‘husmanskost’ deserves its own day
What is Swedish ‘husmanskost’ – and why does it have a day?
Swedish cuisine might not command the same spotlight as French haute cuisine or Italy’s pizza and pasta, but it’s staging a quiet, delicious comeback. Leading this revival is husmanskost – Sweden’s answer to hearty, honest food with roots deep in its history. Once dismissed as old-fashioned, husmanskost is now being reimagined for a new era, complete with its own celebratory day (26 February) and modern takes that honour its simplicity while embracing sustainability. So why is everyone talking about husmanskost? Let’s explore!
Top photography courtesy of Pål Allan
What is Swedish ‘husmanskost’?
Husmanskost is Sweden on a plate: hearty, straightforward dishes rooted in tradition and shaped by necessity. These meals are built around local, seasonal ingredients and have been sustaining Swedes for centuries. Think meatballs, pea soup, pancakes, pickled herring and mashed potatoes – comfort food that tells a story.
A word with deep roots
The term husmanskost comes from husman, an old Swedish word for smallholder or tenant farmer, and kost, meaning food or diet.
Essentially, it was the everyday fare of the working classes. While the exact origin is unclear, this style of cooking likely began to take shape in the early modern period, as farming methods improved and regional ingredients became staples in rural diets. Husmanskost was fuel, designed to sustain hard-working people through long winters and longer days in the fields.
A dish for every region
Pontus Frithiof, a prominent Stockholm-based chef and restaurateur, is one of husmanskost’s most vocal advocates. With a deep appreciation for Swedish culinary traditions, he co-authored the acclaimed book Husmanskost – Svenska smaker tolkade av Pontus Frithiof och Tor Stålhandske. The book weighs an impressive four kilos and features no fewer than 185 recipes. If anyone understands husmanskost, it’s this man.
Frithiof emphasises the regional pride embedded in these dishes: “Husmanskost is about quintessential Swedish ingredients. It’s also about making the most of what you have, whether it’s curing fish, preserving vegetables or using every part of the animal. Many dishes, like Pite-palt from the north or kroppkakor from Småland and Öland, are tied to specific regions and their unique local ingredients.”
This connection to place means that husmanskost isn’t just one thing. It’s a culinary map of Sweden, with each dish reflecting the resources, traditions and ingenuity of its region.
Preservation and practicality
Before refrigeration, survival often depended on how well you could pickle, smoke or cure your food. That’s why you’ll find a streak of acidity or sweetness in many husmanskost dishes – they’re flavours born out of necessity. Pickled herring, lingonberries and cured meats were insurance policies against Sweden’s long winters.
Photography courtesy of Pål Allan and Yirui Aries
Why is ‘husmanskost’ gaining traction again?
Husmanskost, the traditional Swedish home-style cooking, is experiencing a resurgence. This revival reflects a broader cultural shift towards valuing tradition, sustainability and authenticity in food.
A return to roots
In recent years, there has been a growing interest in traditional Swedish dishes. This trend is evident in the culinary scene, where chefs are reinterpreting classic recipes, and in households, where people are revisiting family favourites. The desire to connect with cultural heritage and the comfort of familiar flavours has contributed to this renewed appreciation.
Contemporary chefs are breathing new life into husmanskost by incorporating high-quality, sustainable, regional ingredients and offering modern twists on traditional dishes. This approach respects the rural culinary roots of husmanskost while appealing to modern palates.
Culinary nostalgia
The resurgence of husmanskost can also be attributed to a sense of culinary nostalgia. In times of uncertainty, there is a tendency to gravitate towards familiar and comforting foods. Traditional dishes like raggmunk with pork, meatballs, kroppkakor and cod in egg sauce are making a comeback, satisfying both nostalgic cravings and a desire for authentic Swedish flavours.
Photography courtesy of John Sander and Pål Allan
Why does ‘husmanskost’ now have its own celebratory day?
Much like other much-loved foods in Sweden – think cinnamon buns and kladdkaka – husmanskost is celebrated with its very own day. Starting 26 February 2025, Swedes will mark Husmanskostens Dag every year, a moment dedicated to the dishes that have shaped the nation’s culinary identity and cultural heritage.
Giving tradition its due
The idea behind Husmanskostens Dag is to honour the food that has sustained Sweden for generations. The initiative was spearheaded by Frithiof, who has collaborated with White Guide, Sweden’s leading restaurant guide, and Gastronomiska Akademin, an organisation dedicated to preserving and promoting the nation’s culinary traditions.
This effort is backed by Måltidsakademin, which focuses on safeguarding Swedish meal culture, and LRF, The Federation of Swedish Farmers, which connects husmanskost to Sweden’s agricultural heritage. Arla, the country’s largest dairy producer, has also pledged support, with plans to promote the day through events and campaigns.
Several notable voices have also joined the movement. Mikael Einarsson, chef at Chez Jolie, champions husmanskost as simple, affordable and deeply nourishing. Other key advocates include Peter Kjellberg of White Guide, Karsten Thurfjell of Gastronomiska Akademin, Louise Wallgren of Sabis and Madeleine Brehmer, CEO of Sabis.
A collective movement
Husmanskostens Dag is also an important call to action. The organisers aim to inspire Swedes to reconnect with the meals that define their heritage, whether by cooking them at home or incorporating them into public kitchens, schools and hospitals. By showcasing husmanskost’s reliance on locally sourced ingredients and sustainable cooking methods, the day also supports Swedish farmers and local producers.
What are the defining characteristics of ‘husmanskost’?
Frithiof highlights one characteristic that sets Swedish husmanskost apart from other traditional cuisines: its distinct flavour profile.
“What makes it unique is the use of flavours like acidity and sweetness, but also spices such as dill, allspice and cloves,” he explains.
This combination of tangy, sweet and spiced notes defines dishes like pickled herring, meatballs with lingonberry sauce and pork stews. It’s a flavour palette rooted in necessity and preservation methods, giving husmanskost a clear identity.
Seasonal and local ingredients
Husmanskost relies on ingredients that were historically available in Sweden’s fields, forests and waters. Root vegetables, grains, pork, fish and dairy dominate, supplemented by berries and herbs. These ingredients are tied to the seasons, making husmanskost a direct reflection of the Swedish landscape.
Practical cooking
The methods used in husmanskost are practical and unpretentious. Boiling, baking, frying and pickling are common, designed to maximise the potential of each ingredient. There’s a focus on letting natural flavours shine, with minimal reliance on anything processed or artificial.
Using everything
Husmanskost is built on resourcefulness. Dishes were created to use every part of an animal, every crop from the field and every berry from the forest. Nothing was wasted – a principle that resonates strongly today as sustainable eating gains prominence.
Photography courtesy of Pål Allan and Meta Sjödin
What are some popular examples of ‘husmanskost’ dishes?
It’s estimated that there are over a hundred traditional dishes that fall under the umbrella of husmanskost, each reflecting Sweden’s diverse landscapes and regional identities. From the fertile fields of the south to the icy forests of the north, these dishes showcase the country’s rich culinary heritage and its deep connection to local ingredients.
Frithiof reflects on his favourite husmanskost dish: “That’s the wonderful thing about husmanskost – it’s impossible to choose just one. But if I had to, kokt kalv i dill (veal in dill sauce) is especially close to my heart. It requires a fine-tuned palate to balance sweet and sour, and craftsmanship to cook the meat perfectly while ensuring the sauce is as light as possible.”
Southern delights: Skåne and Småland
In the south, hearty meals dominate. Äggakaka, a thick pancake cooked with bacon, is a Skåne classic, typically paired with sweet-tart lingonberries. Kroppkakor, potato dumplings filled with pork, are a beloved specialty of Småland and Öland, embodying the region’s resourceful approach to creating filling meals.
Central staples: national favourites
As you move northward, central Sweden offers some of the country’s most iconic dishes. Köttbullar (Swedish meatballs) are a global ambassador of Swedish cuisine, traditionally served with creamy gravy, lingonberry sauce and boiled potatoes. Ärtsoppa, a yellow pea soup often accompanied by pancakes, has been a Thursday tradition since medieval times. Pytt i panna, a simple hash made from diced potatoes, onions and leftover meat, highlights the ingenuity of Swedish home cooking.
Northern specialities: Lapland’s unique flavours
In northern Sweden, husmanskost reflects the colder climate and the need for preservation. Pitepalt, a variation of potato dumplings filled with pork, is a hearty dish from Norrbotten. Surströmming, fermented herring, is both a regional delicacy and a cultural icon. Reindeer meat, whether smoked or stewed, features prominently in Sami cuisine and is often served alongside root vegetables, tying the region’s food to its natural resources.
Photography courtesy of Lieselotte Van Der Meijs
Is ‘husmanskost’ difficult to prepare?
There’s a perception that husmanskost requires more time and effort than most people are willing to spend in their kitchens. While some recipes demand patience, many are surprisingly quick and beginner-friendly. Historically, these were meals made without the conveniences of modern equipment, relying instead on straightforward techniques and seasonal ingredients.
Some dishes take time, others don’t
Frithiof admits that not every husmanskost recipe can be rushed: “You don’t boil a raw pork knuckle in fifteen minutes,” he quips.
But he’s quick to point out that plenty of dishes are faster and just as satisfying: “Minced meat dishes or the wonderful mackerel recipe from our husmanskost book are excellent examples of quick, approachable meals. Raggmunk with pork, one of my personal favourites, is another great example of ‘fast-husman-food’.”
A chance to slow down
Marcus Ekman, CEO of Frithiof’s company Pontus Brands AB, offers a different perspective on the time required to prepare husmanskost: “Why see it as a problem that some cooking takes time? People can benefit from slowing down. A ‘little cooking project’ can bring the family together, both in the preparation and at the table.”
He points out that some dishes, like kalops (a traditional Swedish beef stew), may take hours but require little hands-on effort: “Once you’ve learned to make kalops, you realise it’s a long-cook dish, but it practically takes care of itself on the stove, freeing up time for other things.”
A matter of perspective
The beauty of husmanskost lies in its versatility. While some dishes require planning, others can be prepared quickly, making them ideal for busy evenings. At its heart, husmanskost is about making the most of what you have – whether that’s time, ingredients or the opportunity to connect with loved ones over a shared meal.
Photography courtesy of Björn Tesch
What is the future vision for ‘husmanskost’?
The future of husmanskost is both about preserving its traditions and adapting it to reflect the times. As Sweden continues to evolve, so too will its most iconic culinary tradition – maintaining its relevance in everyday meals while embracing opportunities for innovation and sustainability.
Adapting to modern tastes
Frithiof sees room for husmanskost to grow and evolve while still respecting its roots: “Husmanskost was born during a time when options, technology and storage were limited. Today, we have the tools to reinterpret these dishes for a new era.”
One example he shares is a project for a major Swedish company, where traditional husmanskost dishes were mirrored with vegetarian alternatives: “It’s not always easy, but it’s possible. Ingredients like certain cheeses, cabbage or aubergine can mimic the texture of meat,” he explains.
Frithiof also highlights another path for evolution: “There are so many wonderful international dishes with the same heart as husmanskost. A lentil and bean stew with curry and coconut milk, for instance, offers the same comfort and sustenance.”
Sustainability at its core
Ekman emphasises the importance of husmanskost in tackling future challenges: “We live in a time where we must rethink our resource management and focus on sustainability. The raw ingredients in husmanskost are largely sourced locally, which is critical as we cannot always rely on having the world’s pantry available on supermarket shelves.”
Expanding horizons
While husmanskost is rooted in Swedish history, its future could embrace global influences without losing its essence. By incorporating new techniques or complementary flavours, it can maintain its place in modern kitchens while appealing to changing palates.
The goal mustn’t be to reinvent husmanskost entirely but to let it grow organically – keeping it a staple of both everyday meals and special occasions.
Photography courtesy of Magnus Carlsson
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